Enjoyed leisurely morning sipping tea on our patio. Late breakfast at Restaurant Las Viandras on Juarez. The front of restaurant is open to the street. On Sundays, a road route to Guadalajara is closed to motor vehicle traffic which provides a safe wide way for families to ride bicycles, skate boards, roller blades, walk dogs, and push baby strollers. We watched this procession from our breakfast table.
We had planned to walk the route towards Guadalajara but, only went two blocks when we noticed a stage at the SW corner of the Parian. There were men and women in traditional dress whom I recognized as Ballet Folklorical. We took our seats on a shaded park bench opposite the stage. We did not wait long for the two hour show to begin. We were joined by Santiago a man in his 40's in a wheelchair and his mother Ramona. Santiago had lived in California, so he spoke some English and was able to help us interpret the dances. In addition to the traditional dances, they performed several interpretive dances. Those performers had a ballet background as they danced with poise and fluid movements. Performance started with the Danza de Los Viejos (Dance of the Old Men) one of my favorite Mexican dances.
Between our bench and the stage was the road with hundreds of people mostly on bikes passing by. This added to the color and to our amusement. What a place for people watching. Laurinda would have fallen in love with the many beautiful dogs....many riding in bicycle baskets.
After watching these wonderful dancers for two hours, we did not feel the need to view something similar in the courtyard of the Parian later in the afternoon. Walked only a block and we met our friends Jim, Bob, and Richard....the JRB Jazz Band. Exchanged greetings and Ann and I, were on our way. To where? Wherever our feet might take us. Found a gallery thus far unexplored - "Galeria Rosita Canela y Jose Cortez" on Morelos, where I purchased a colorful tin lizard mirror.
Had a refreshment break in the courtyard of a restaurant across Matamoros from the Cathedral (Soledad).
Made a stop at the Refugio, but other than a private party nothing seemed to be happening. Did some supermarket shopping at Soriana and then went home.
Turned on my computer for updates from home. Good news - Power was restored on my street last night. Ann spoke with friends who said that it was not only in the North Country that there were problems. Beverly had no power in Raymond, NH until this morning. We learned of excessive wind damage and destruction all over the state.
Learned that Western Europe had similar storms with huricane force winds of up to 124 mph. Extensive damage in England, France, Spain, and Portugal. Many lives lost. This has been a bad week with landslides and flooding in Madieras and earthquakes in Chile as well. And people worry about travel to Mexico!
Made decisions about when to travel to and from India and via internet made my airline reservations with Continental Airlines for January 7-29, 2011. It is like gambling or buying into the stock market. When is the best time to buy for the best rates. Paid $1296. which is not bad for the distanced to be traveled. Isn't the Internet wonderful! I can be in Mexico and yet handle all my home business without a languagr barrier.
Light supper at home and again a stroll around town. It was entertainment for the children in the Jardin, tonight. We watched several clowns include the children as they entertained. On Independencia, there were drummers....sounded Carribean to me. Walked to end of the pedestrian way.....and when we turned....there was a gigantic full moon directly in front of us.
Turned on the television to see if the Olympics might be on. Had not been able to find it the past week. We were in time for the closing ceremonies. For me, this was one of the few Winter Olympics that I have missed. Oh well...I rather be in Mexico.
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Saturday, February 27, 2010
JRB Jazz Band, Springfield, Missouri
Slow and easy day. Slept late, did a couple loads of laundry. Hung the more delicate clothing on rack in back yard. Sat around the patio enjoying a cup of tea and a humorous book "Aunt Pig of Puglia". Realized that the flowering bushes and plants in our yard needed a watering, but I was not strong enough to turn on the two faucets for the garden watering systems. Ann was successful and she turned them on all the way. That was great until we realized that we had our laundry drying out there. We made a dash for that section of the yard and got soaked for our efforts. We laughed so hard as we stood there dripping. It was a joy to laugh in such a hearty way.
After drying off, and giving the gardens their soaking, we wandered about town for a couple hours. Seems as though each time we walk down Independencia, we discover galleries and shops that we have not visited before. How is this possible? Today's discovery was Galeria Carlos Albert at No 159. with its display of whimsical animals mostly made of paper mache. The woman working there stuck up a friendly conversation with us. She said that customers can walk into the shop with frowns on their faces but, cannot help walking out with a grin. This is so true. The art delights one's spirit. Two more times this day, we met up with our new friend...at Waldos (the ten peso s tore) and at the evening concert. Each day our group of acquaintances in town expands.
Quesedilla and a Cerveza Rusa (beer with ice and lime juice) for supper at La Unica across the street.
Yesterday, Bob and Jim, our Tapatio Bus Tour friends humbly told us that they were in Tlaquepaque on a cultural exchange program "Peace through People". Tlaquepaque is a sister city to their home city - Springfield, Missouri. They and their partner, Richard, play in a rock/jazz trio. Tonight, we joined a large crowd of local people in Jardin Hidalgo for the concert. Much to our astonishment, they were outstanding...and I do not even like that kind of music. They were great instrumentalists as well as singers.
Looking back at yesterday, what if we had known of and boarded the 11:30 am Tapatio Bus? We would not have met Bob and Jim plus our Harley acquaintances. I still believe that what is meant to be will be.
I understand that back home in Thornton, NH, much of the town including my condo has been without power for a couple of days and power might not be restored until Tuesday. I should still have heat as I have propane heat and temps are in the thirties. My biggest problem will be a freezer chock full of frozen food.
After drying off, and giving the gardens their soaking, we wandered about town for a couple hours. Seems as though each time we walk down Independencia, we discover galleries and shops that we have not visited before. How is this possible? Today's discovery was Galeria Carlos Albert at No 159. with its display of whimsical animals mostly made of paper mache. The woman working there stuck up a friendly conversation with us. She said that customers can walk into the shop with frowns on their faces but, cannot help walking out with a grin. This is so true. The art delights one's spirit. Two more times this day, we met up with our new friend...at Waldos (the ten peso s tore) and at the evening concert. Each day our group of acquaintances in town expands.
Quesedilla and a Cerveza Rusa (beer with ice and lime juice) for supper at La Unica across the street.
Yesterday, Bob and Jim, our Tapatio Bus Tour friends humbly told us that they were in Tlaquepaque on a cultural exchange program "Peace through People". Tlaquepaque is a sister city to their home city - Springfield, Missouri. They and their partner, Richard, play in a rock/jazz trio. Tonight, we joined a large crowd of local people in Jardin Hidalgo for the concert. Much to our astonishment, they were outstanding...and I do not even like that kind of music. They were great instrumentalists as well as singers.
Looking back at yesterday, what if we had known of and boarded the 11:30 am Tapatio Bus? We would not have met Bob and Jim plus our Harley acquaintances. I still believe that what is meant to be will be.
I understand that back home in Thornton, NH, much of the town including my condo has been without power for a couple of days and power might not be restored until Tuesday. I should still have heat as I have propane heat and temps are in the thirties. My biggest problem will be a freezer chock full of frozen food.
Friday, February 26, 2010
Riding with the HOGS - Harley Owners Group
Well, lets start at the beginning and work our way through the day until our two hours with the HOGS.
Last night, we checked the posted schedule for the Tapatio Bus Tours to Guadalajara and Zapopan. Sign said - "First bus at 12:30." At 11:40 this morning, we pass the sign and it says that the first bus was at 11:30 am....we had just missed it. It was not difficult to spend the time until the next bus. We sat down in a cafe and ordered coffee and hot chocolate. After five minutes, the waiter came back and appologized since the coffee machine "was cold". Not a problem as I did not feel guilty asking to use the restroom. My mission was accomplished....I really did not want a drink.
We met two American tourists...men in their 50's from Missouri....Jim and Bob. They are in Tlaquepaque on a cultural exchange. They are part of a "Rock and Roll" trio. They invited us to come hear them play at a local cafe tonight and in the Jardin, tomorrow night. Jim and Bob accompanied us on our first two bus rides, first to Guadalajara and then to Zapopan. Once we arrived in Guatalajara, there were ninty minutes to kill until the Zapopan bus tour. Ann and I took a walk in the central part of Guadalajara stopping first at the Teatro Degollado. Beautiful theater with the design of an European Opera House. We were able to walk right into the theater. I asked the ticket seller about tickets to the Sunday morning performance of the Ballet Folklorico. He said that they do not perform until April???? All of the books say that it is every Sunday at 10:30 am....year round. Was something missed in translation??
Ann and I ate lunch in what was once a lovely mansion. Our quesedillas were adequate...but the ambiance was lovely.
Back to the boarding area for the Zapopan bus. We learn that this tour narration would only be in Spanish. This was also the case for the Tlaquepaque bus. We sat with Bob and Jim on the top level of the bus. This open space was great for viewing, but brutally hot. After a while, we moved to the back of bus under cover. Traffic moved slowly, bumper to bumper. It was not a very interesting ride. We finally reached the area of Zapopan where there was a cathedral and museums. It may have been interesting, but we did not have time to get off the bus and explore as it would be two and a half hours until we could board another bus to return to Guadalajara. What we did observe was that Zapopan is an very pleasant residential area.
We were back in central Guadalajara with about fifteen minutes to spare before the Guadalajara tour bus would leave. Ahead of us in line for the bus was a large group of young Mexicans mostly men in their 20's and 30's, wearing yellow, orange and black regalia of the HOGs. These "youngsters" allowed Ann and me to board ahead of them. We went directly to the upper level, back of bus. We were joined by this friendly group of bikers. For the next two hours, we rode the steets of Guadalahara as honorary HOGs. I did not say that we rode on their bikes..... we rode with them on the top of bus. We conversed with several of them. They had a large cooler packed with cold beer which they offered to share with us. Ann accepted their hospitality and I passed on the opportunity. When the bus made a five minute stop, one of the young men called out "Grandmothers, can we take photos with you?" Of course, we agreed. This was such a fun experience that it did not matter that the tour was not very interesting.
Fortunately, the Tlaquepaque bus was waiting when we arrived back at the central bus stop. Temperatures had cooled and we had a lovely ride back to our town. Past 6:30 when we got home. As seniors we paid 50 pesos (about $4.25) each for six hours of bus rides...plus the company of many interesting people.
Dinner at the Quinta San Jose's restaurant "Tlaquepaque Pasta". I ate here last week with Sue. It was our favorite restaurant. It really is a beautiful place with dim lights, beautiful paintings on the wall and a wonderful classical guitarist/singer. I repeated my meal of last week as it would be hard to beat. At the next table sat a family that we had met in Tonala, yesterday. Visited with them for a while.
Walked back along Juarez. In front of the Parian, a nicely dressed Mexican man greeted us and Ann remembered him as the gentleman who had located a seat for her on our bus ride to Tonala. Every day in Tlaquepaque is a wonderful experience.
Last night, we checked the posted schedule for the Tapatio Bus Tours to Guadalajara and Zapopan. Sign said - "First bus at 12:30." At 11:40 this morning, we pass the sign and it says that the first bus was at 11:30 am....we had just missed it. It was not difficult to spend the time until the next bus. We sat down in a cafe and ordered coffee and hot chocolate. After five minutes, the waiter came back and appologized since the coffee machine "was cold". Not a problem as I did not feel guilty asking to use the restroom. My mission was accomplished....I really did not want a drink.
We met two American tourists...men in their 50's from Missouri....Jim and Bob. They are in Tlaquepaque on a cultural exchange. They are part of a "Rock and Roll" trio. They invited us to come hear them play at a local cafe tonight and in the Jardin, tomorrow night. Jim and Bob accompanied us on our first two bus rides, first to Guadalajara and then to Zapopan. Once we arrived in Guatalajara, there were ninty minutes to kill until the Zapopan bus tour. Ann and I took a walk in the central part of Guadalajara stopping first at the Teatro Degollado. Beautiful theater with the design of an European Opera House. We were able to walk right into the theater. I asked the ticket seller about tickets to the Sunday morning performance of the Ballet Folklorico. He said that they do not perform until April???? All of the books say that it is every Sunday at 10:30 am....year round. Was something missed in translation??
Ann and I ate lunch in what was once a lovely mansion. Our quesedillas were adequate...but the ambiance was lovely.
Back to the boarding area for the Zapopan bus. We learn that this tour narration would only be in Spanish. This was also the case for the Tlaquepaque bus. We sat with Bob and Jim on the top level of the bus. This open space was great for viewing, but brutally hot. After a while, we moved to the back of bus under cover. Traffic moved slowly, bumper to bumper. It was not a very interesting ride. We finally reached the area of Zapopan where there was a cathedral and museums. It may have been interesting, but we did not have time to get off the bus and explore as it would be two and a half hours until we could board another bus to return to Guadalajara. What we did observe was that Zapopan is an very pleasant residential area.
We were back in central Guadalajara with about fifteen minutes to spare before the Guadalajara tour bus would leave. Ahead of us in line for the bus was a large group of young Mexicans mostly men in their 20's and 30's, wearing yellow, orange and black regalia of the HOGs. These "youngsters" allowed Ann and me to board ahead of them. We went directly to the upper level, back of bus. We were joined by this friendly group of bikers. For the next two hours, we rode the steets of Guadalahara as honorary HOGs. I did not say that we rode on their bikes..... we rode with them on the top of bus. We conversed with several of them. They had a large cooler packed with cold beer which they offered to share with us. Ann accepted their hospitality and I passed on the opportunity. When the bus made a five minute stop, one of the young men called out "Grandmothers, can we take photos with you?" Of course, we agreed. This was such a fun experience that it did not matter that the tour was not very interesting.
Fortunately, the Tlaquepaque bus was waiting when we arrived back at the central bus stop. Temperatures had cooled and we had a lovely ride back to our town. Past 6:30 when we got home. As seniors we paid 50 pesos (about $4.25) each for six hours of bus rides...plus the company of many interesting people.
Dinner at the Quinta San Jose's restaurant "Tlaquepaque Pasta". I ate here last week with Sue. It was our favorite restaurant. It really is a beautiful place with dim lights, beautiful paintings on the wall and a wonderful classical guitarist/singer. I repeated my meal of last week as it would be hard to beat. At the next table sat a family that we had met in Tonala, yesterday. Visited with them for a while.
Walked back along Juarez. In front of the Parian, a nicely dressed Mexican man greeted us and Ann remembered him as the gentleman who had located a seat for her on our bus ride to Tonala. Every day in Tlaquepaque is a wonderful experience.
Highlight of Tonala - "Chiles en Nogada"
OK, so I rather eat than shop. That is a fact. The highlight of yesterday's trip to Tonala was lunch at the Rincon del Sol Restaurant. I chose the speicialty of the house "Chiles en Nogada". If you do a google search for the recipe, you will find it complicated and much work. It is made up of two Poblano peppers which are NOT PICANTE stuffed with ground beef, peas, carrots, and walnuts. It is then covered with a walnut cream sauce and decorated with red pomegranate seeds. The flavor as well as presentation was superb. Ingredients in recipes can differ. I am sure that all would be wonderful.
Ann and I waited in the same location for the bus from Tlaquepaque to Tonala. Asked the driver if bus stopped in Tonala. Si. Well, we traveled a route through villages that we had not seen on the last two bus rides. Going home...we went a fourth route. Guess it must be like Rome with many routes leading to a destination.
We walked a different street market route than Sue and I took the other day. Found some wonderful wooden boxes, place mats, napkins. Mostly, it was fun to look around. It is amazing to see all of the fabricas (where crafts are made) and shops. People everywhere go out of their way to be friendly and helpful. We found this on bus rides and walking the streets.
Ann and I waited in the same location for the bus from Tlaquepaque to Tonala. Asked the driver if bus stopped in Tonala. Si. Well, we traveled a route through villages that we had not seen on the last two bus rides. Going home...we went a fourth route. Guess it must be like Rome with many routes leading to a destination.
We walked a different street market route than Sue and I took the other day. Found some wonderful wooden boxes, place mats, napkins. Mostly, it was fun to look around. It is amazing to see all of the fabricas (where crafts are made) and shops. People everywhere go out of their way to be friendly and helpful. We found this on bus rides and walking the streets.
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Ann's Introduction to Tlaquepaque
Once again, we had our Tourist Police Guide, Jonathan. It was like greeting an old friend. He really is a sweetheart. While today's walking tour was very similar to the one Jonathan presented to Sue and me...there were some different points of interest which he shared. Being a Wednesday, the Museo Regional de la Ceramica de Tlaquepaque and the Museo Panteon Panduro were open. We learned so much more about ceramics of the area with Jonathans explanations, than when visiting the museums on our own. We got by speaking Spanglish.
The rest of the day we wandered in and out of galleries appreciating the art work delighting in the artists' creativity and often sense of humor. Everywhere we go, people are warm and friendly. Mid-day meal at the decorative inner courtyard at Rio San Pedro on Calle Juarez.
Not far from our apartment is a small shop that sells Pastes. What are Pastes? They are a Mexican version of the Cornish (Cornwall, England) Pasties. I learned via Wikipedia that Hidalgo, Mexico is a sister city with Redruth, Cornwall. That is where I was introduced to Pasties by my friend and guide, Martin Hunt.
The name of the shop in Tlaquepaque is Pastes Real de Minas..del Horno a su Paladar. The Pastes are a lot like turnovers with a variety of fillings: potato and meat, Red Mole, Green Mole, Hawaiian, Tuna, sausage, Peppers and Cheese, Mushrooms and Cheese...and sweet fillings of Pineapple, Apple, Corn with Milk, Cream, and of course Chocolate. I have tried four flavors...and my favorites thus far are the potatoes and meat and for dessert the chocolate paste.
I feel happy when I walk around Tlaquepaque. I think that it is the friendly people plus the beauty of the many handicrafts. I do not have to buy...looking is sufficient.
In the late afternoon, we went back to our apartment to read and relax out on our patio for a couple of hours. It is so comfortable to be outside. No insects...we lounge in comfort. The direct sun becomes to hot...and we need to move to shade. Meanwhile, I read weather reports for Woodstock, NH.......snow....snow....and more snow. I am grateful for the sunshine and warmth.
The rest of the day we wandered in and out of galleries appreciating the art work delighting in the artists' creativity and often sense of humor. Everywhere we go, people are warm and friendly. Mid-day meal at the decorative inner courtyard at Rio San Pedro on Calle Juarez.
Not far from our apartment is a small shop that sells Pastes. What are Pastes? They are a Mexican version of the Cornish (Cornwall, England) Pasties. I learned via Wikipedia that Hidalgo, Mexico is a sister city with Redruth, Cornwall. That is where I was introduced to Pasties by my friend and guide, Martin Hunt.
The name of the shop in Tlaquepaque is Pastes Real de Minas..del Horno a su Paladar. The Pastes are a lot like turnovers with a variety of fillings: potato and meat, Red Mole, Green Mole, Hawaiian, Tuna, sausage, Peppers and Cheese, Mushrooms and Cheese...and sweet fillings of Pineapple, Apple, Corn with Milk, Cream, and of course Chocolate. I have tried four flavors...and my favorites thus far are the potatoes and meat and for dessert the chocolate paste.
I feel happy when I walk around Tlaquepaque. I think that it is the friendly people plus the beauty of the many handicrafts. I do not have to buy...looking is sufficient.
In the late afternoon, we went back to our apartment to read and relax out on our patio for a couple of hours. It is so comfortable to be outside. No insects...we lounge in comfort. The direct sun becomes to hot...and we need to move to shade. Meanwhile, I read weather reports for Woodstock, NH.......snow....snow....and more snow. I am grateful for the sunshine and warmth.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Adios Sue, Bienvenido Ann
Sue left the apartment for the airport at 7:00 am to return to Boston. In reverse, Ann arrived at the apartment in Tlaquepaque at around 6:00 pm. Where did my day go??? In addition to cleaning and doing a load of laundry (we have a washer and dryer), I did more research about the sights that Ann and I will tour in the area of Guadalajara and Tlaquepaque. The Moon Guide Book and Internet websites were most helpful. The list is long.
After a dinner of my homemade chicken vegetable soup and red quinoa tabouleh, Ann had her introductory walk around town. The Jardin and the two churches - Soledad and San Pedro look especially beautiful when lit up at night. It was after 8:00 pm...but children were still out playing and riding their bicycles. Men and women pushed baby strollers around the jardin. Lovers embraced. Teens in uniforms and day packs appeared to be coming home from school at this late hour. Temperatures were in the upper 60's. This was a perfect night for aa walk. But, aren't they all!
After a dinner of my homemade chicken vegetable soup and red quinoa tabouleh, Ann had her introductory walk around town. The Jardin and the two churches - Soledad and San Pedro look especially beautiful when lit up at night. It was after 8:00 pm...but children were still out playing and riding their bicycles. Men and women pushed baby strollers around the jardin. Lovers embraced. Teens in uniforms and day packs appeared to be coming home from school at this late hour. Temperatures were in the upper 60's. This was a perfect night for aa walk. But, aren't they all!
Monday, February 22, 2010
Tlaquepaque Walking Tour with Jonathan
Stopped by the Tlaquepaque Office of Tourism on Morelos, upstairs over the Casa de Artesano. Within ten minutes, an English speaking guide was called and arrived to take us on a tour. Jonathan covered the historical highlights with visits to the Basilica "Santurario de Nuestra Senora de la Soledad". At one time, this was the church of the rich. Within 100 yards of the front door is another church "Parroquia de San Pedro"....built for the poor, regular citizens of the town. In "Soledad" our guide took us to a small chapel where the was a tunnel that went to the local cemetery and also a tunnel that went all the way to Guadalajara. This was an escape route during the days of the revolution.
We walked through the Jardin de Hidalgo....named for the hero of the revolution against Spain. We viewed the murals inside the Presidencia Municipal (City Hall). The murals represent Tlaquepaque of the past, present, and future. In front of this building there was a medical staff providing H1N1 innocculations for the public. We observed this a few days ago, also. Good to see this service provided.
Brief walk through the Parian....a former market place...now home to nine reastaurants. (I thought that there were more.) Mariachis perform here on Wednesdays ans Sundays at 3:30 pm and 9:00 pm.
We visited a well known potter, Padilla, and went through his studio and saw the works in progress. Also visited a glass blower...but he was not working today.
Museo Pantaleon Panduro was closed (Monday). That was okay as we had already been there. This museum is part of Centro Cultural El Refugio. This was once a hospital...and now offers classes and exhibits of the arts. Jonathan took us through the building and up to the rooftop. Being a clear day, we could see as far as Guadalajara in one direction.....Tonala in another...and so on. He even showed us two places where there are tunnels to Guadalajara.
Our tour concluded back at the "Historic House" on Independencia where the papers were signed giving Mexico their freedom from Spain.
The tour was free...but we tipped Jonathan generously for his time.
Shopped at the central market for vegetables. They sell packages of fresh chopped vegetables ready for the soup pot. When I arrived home, I boiled the chicken bones left from Sue's roasted chicken, added the chopped vegetables, some small pieces of chicken, and tiny bow tie macaroni. This will be a dinner treat for Ann when she arrives tomorrow night.
We walked through the Jardin de Hidalgo....named for the hero of the revolution against Spain. We viewed the murals inside the Presidencia Municipal (City Hall). The murals represent Tlaquepaque of the past, present, and future. In front of this building there was a medical staff providing H1N1 innocculations for the public. We observed this a few days ago, also. Good to see this service provided.
Brief walk through the Parian....a former market place...now home to nine reastaurants. (I thought that there were more.) Mariachis perform here on Wednesdays ans Sundays at 3:30 pm and 9:00 pm.
We visited a well known potter, Padilla, and went through his studio and saw the works in progress. Also visited a glass blower...but he was not working today.
Museo Pantaleon Panduro was closed (Monday). That was okay as we had already been there. This museum is part of Centro Cultural El Refugio. This was once a hospital...and now offers classes and exhibits of the arts. Jonathan took us through the building and up to the rooftop. Being a clear day, we could see as far as Guadalajara in one direction.....Tonala in another...and so on. He even showed us two places where there are tunnels to Guadalajara.
Our tour concluded back at the "Historic House" on Independencia where the papers were signed giving Mexico their freedom from Spain.
The tour was free...but we tipped Jonathan generously for his time.
Shopped at the central market for vegetables. They sell packages of fresh chopped vegetables ready for the soup pot. When I arrived home, I boiled the chicken bones left from Sue's roasted chicken, added the chopped vegetables, some small pieces of chicken, and tiny bow tie macaroni. This will be a dinner treat for Ann when she arrives tomorrow night.
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Tonala Handicraft Market Day
Thursdays and Sundays are the market days for the Tonala's handicrafts. Sue and I were going to take a taxi to this neighboring town, five miles to the southeast. Olivia said why take a taxi when there is a bus two blocks from our apartment. We walked two blocks and, where were we? On Calle Tonala. Now, on which corner do we catch the correct bus? A helpful teenager explained that there were two buses to Tonala. The regular bus for six pesos and the more comfortable bus for nine pesos. Well, the six peso bus arrived first and we confirmed that it was going to Tonala. Drove a few blocks...and there was the church where we ended yesterday's procession. And we thought that we were so far from home, yesterday, and it was only a matter of blocks.
Other passengers advised us when to get off the bus in Tonala. Crossed the street...and immediate joy ......the bright, pleasing colors once again of the art work. We were greeted by the brightly dressed skeltons of Dona Caterina and her friends. I fell in love with Catalina, years ago at the Day of the Dead celebrations in Patzcuaro, Mexico. Two other familar faces....Diego and Frida.
There were booths with vendors lining the streets. In some locations, the booths were four deep. Wonderful, fun, pieces of art. For the sake of my wallet, thank goodness that I have collected many pieces of similar folk art over the years. Otherwise, the temptation to buy out the vendors would be overwhelming.
It got to be very crowded and less fun as we went along. Crossed the street and started making our way back...very slowly. There was so much to see....dishes of all sorts and designs...paintings...carved pieces of fruit...candle stick holders....
Tme for lunch. Cut off the main street and follwed our map to an area closer to the center of town. Had lunch at Restaurant El Boquinete which is recommended in the Moon Guide. Very attentive and helpful waiter. Lunch of quesedillas was adequate....but, not nearly as good as those at Olivia's restaurant.
Walking on Zaragoza, we saw many shops displaying beautiful ball gowns. They were the kind that I imagined having when I was a little girl....right out of Disney's Cinderella. After translating a sign, we realized that these were Quince Anos gowns. An important time in a Latin American girl's life is the celebration of her Fifteenth Birthday.
Made our way back to where we had gotten off the bus a few hours earlier. Where do we stand for a bus to get back to Tlaquepaque? A kind storekeeper walked me up the street and pointed to an approaching bus. Had a lot of writing on it....including "Tlaquepaque" I asked the bus driver if he was going that way...and he replied "Si". This was the "comfortable" nine peso bus. We had soft seats for the extra three pesos. From what I read, I think that we were also suppose to have air conditioning. Not today, not this bus. Went a sort ways and then stopped for a large group of people. Apparently, their bus had broken down. The bus turned and we were in unfamilar territory. We made several pickups at the largest, most modern bus terminal that I have ever sen. This I later read is Guadalajara's "new" bus terminal. Buses to locations all over Mexico leave from this terminal.
Are we on our way back to Tlaquepaque? or Guadalajara? Nothing looked familar until we came to a corner where the building was painted yellow and had a big ear of corn illustrated on the side. This was a tortilleria in our neighborhood. Time to get off the bus. We felt good that we had been successful in finding our way to and from Tonala by bus...in spite of limited Spanish. I credit the kind people that we met along the way.
Back to Lirio Blanco...put up our feet and lounged on the patio with books. I stayed out until the last rays of light until 7:30 PM. Felt good to enjoy the warm air and sunshine for a another day
Other passengers advised us when to get off the bus in Tonala. Crossed the street...and immediate joy ......the bright, pleasing colors once again of the art work. We were greeted by the brightly dressed skeltons of Dona Caterina and her friends. I fell in love with Catalina, years ago at the Day of the Dead celebrations in Patzcuaro, Mexico. Two other familar faces....Diego and Frida.
There were booths with vendors lining the streets. In some locations, the booths were four deep. Wonderful, fun, pieces of art. For the sake of my wallet, thank goodness that I have collected many pieces of similar folk art over the years. Otherwise, the temptation to buy out the vendors would be overwhelming.
It got to be very crowded and less fun as we went along. Crossed the street and started making our way back...very slowly. There was so much to see....dishes of all sorts and designs...paintings...carved pieces of fruit...candle stick holders....
Tme for lunch. Cut off the main street and follwed our map to an area closer to the center of town. Had lunch at Restaurant El Boquinete which is recommended in the Moon Guide. Very attentive and helpful waiter. Lunch of quesedillas was adequate....but, not nearly as good as those at Olivia's restaurant.
Walking on Zaragoza, we saw many shops displaying beautiful ball gowns. They were the kind that I imagined having when I was a little girl....right out of Disney's Cinderella. After translating a sign, we realized that these were Quince Anos gowns. An important time in a Latin American girl's life is the celebration of her Fifteenth Birthday.
Made our way back to where we had gotten off the bus a few hours earlier. Where do we stand for a bus to get back to Tlaquepaque? A kind storekeeper walked me up the street and pointed to an approaching bus. Had a lot of writing on it....including "Tlaquepaque" I asked the bus driver if he was going that way...and he replied "Si". This was the "comfortable" nine peso bus. We had soft seats for the extra three pesos. From what I read, I think that we were also suppose to have air conditioning. Not today, not this bus. Went a sort ways and then stopped for a large group of people. Apparently, their bus had broken down. The bus turned and we were in unfamilar territory. We made several pickups at the largest, most modern bus terminal that I have ever sen. This I later read is Guadalajara's "new" bus terminal. Buses to locations all over Mexico leave from this terminal.
Are we on our way back to Tlaquepaque? or Guadalajara? Nothing looked familar until we came to a corner where the building was painted yellow and had a big ear of corn illustrated on the side. This was a tortilleria in our neighborhood. Time to get off the bus. We felt good that we had been successful in finding our way to and from Tonala by bus...in spite of limited Spanish. I credit the kind people that we met along the way.
Back to Lirio Blanco...put up our feet and lounged on the patio with books. I stayed out until the last rays of light until 7:30 PM. Felt good to enjoy the warm air and sunshine for a another day
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Following the Virgin
Started out as an ordinary day with a filling breakfast at our apartment followed by a walk around the center of town. Visited my favorie gallery - Galeria Rodo Padilla/The Bicycle House/The Casa de Bicicletas. All of Padilla's art is whimsical. Many pieces follow a bicycle theme. His colors, his shapes bring a smile to your face and joy to your heart.
Next stop was the Museo Pantaleon Panduro which is part of the Refugio Cultural Center. Award winning ceramics are displayed in this museum. All work is outstanding...and some of the miniatures needed a magnifying glass to study the details.
Brief shopping stop at Soriana (large, modern, well stocked super market) for a few more staples. Home for lunch. Down time to read or do laundry.
At around 4:30 pm, we decided to explore other neighborhoods to the east of Cinco de Mayo. Walked only two blocks when we looked to the north and saw that as far as we could see the street was closed to traffic. People of all ages were putting stems and leaves of a particular plant all over the street. Homes lining the street were decorated with light blue and white plastic cutouts. They decorated their homes and strung the decorations from one side of the street to the other. The entrances at cross roads were decorated by gateways of branches, flowers plus blue and white balloons. It still was all a mystery to Sue and me. People were starting to line the streets in anticipation. Of what? People were very friendly towards us. Finally, a young man greeted us in English and we questioned him about the significance of the celebration. The Faithful...and the Curious (us) were waiting for the statue of the Virgin Mary to pass from one Catholic church to another. Our guess was that the Virgin spent one week in each church during Lent.
Sue and I walkd to the starting point for the procession. All ages were represented. There were many people in wheelchairs. There was a mother holding an IV for her young son as he watched. Were these people waiting and hoping for a miracle? There were the elderly, teenagers, babes in arms..and all ages in between...male and female..were represented. We were given a handful of confetti to throw at the Virgin as she passed on the top of a car. Brightly colored eggs were sold. The insides had been replaced with confetti. Youngsters and the not so young would crack them on each others heads...and confetti would rain down.
A local band led the procession...then dancers...followed by clergy and the Virgin. All along the route for about three miles ...the Virgin was greeted with songs and the chant of "Viva, Viva, Viva". Sue and I joined the procession following it, making turns, until we had no idea of where we might be. Not a problem. All we had to do was ask for directions back to the Parian...and we could find our way home.
Funny thing was that we went out on this afternoon walk to explore other neighborhoods and ended up sharing a local tradition. Serendipity.
Dinner - Trip Advisor.com listed "Tlaquepaque Pasta" as the Numero Uno restaurant in town. We learned from our neighbor, Laurie, that this restaurant is part of the Quinta Don Jose Hotel on Calle Reforma. There is a sign for the hotel, but not the restaurant. You must ring their doorbell...and wait to be buzzed in. The decor is beautiful...elegant. We were shown to our table in a room tastefully decorated with large paintings of indigenous Mexicans (looked more like Guatemalans or Peruvians to me). We order Margaritas as a starter. Well made and served in beautiful glasses... a good way to begin our meal. I ordered a "Pesto Salad". Excellent choice as it is a baby spinach salad with pesto dressing,pine nuts, and a creamy goat cheese. Could not be more perfect. I chose a pasta course to follow - Chicken Marsala. This, too, was perfect. The waitstaff was friendly and attentive. In addition to good food, we were entertained by a guitarist/singwer. We very much enjoyed his mello choice of music. Could not ask for more. I can see why this restaurant was rated so highly. My meal with two Margaritas and tip came to 260 pesos...about $20 US.
Next stop was the Museo Pantaleon Panduro which is part of the Refugio Cultural Center. Award winning ceramics are displayed in this museum. All work is outstanding...and some of the miniatures needed a magnifying glass to study the details.
Brief shopping stop at Soriana (large, modern, well stocked super market) for a few more staples. Home for lunch. Down time to read or do laundry.
At around 4:30 pm, we decided to explore other neighborhoods to the east of Cinco de Mayo. Walked only two blocks when we looked to the north and saw that as far as we could see the street was closed to traffic. People of all ages were putting stems and leaves of a particular plant all over the street. Homes lining the street were decorated with light blue and white plastic cutouts. They decorated their homes and strung the decorations from one side of the street to the other. The entrances at cross roads were decorated by gateways of branches, flowers plus blue and white balloons. It still was all a mystery to Sue and me. People were starting to line the streets in anticipation. Of what? People were very friendly towards us. Finally, a young man greeted us in English and we questioned him about the significance of the celebration. The Faithful...and the Curious (us) were waiting for the statue of the Virgin Mary to pass from one Catholic church to another. Our guess was that the Virgin spent one week in each church during Lent.
Sue and I walkd to the starting point for the procession. All ages were represented. There were many people in wheelchairs. There was a mother holding an IV for her young son as he watched. Were these people waiting and hoping for a miracle? There were the elderly, teenagers, babes in arms..and all ages in between...male and female..were represented. We were given a handful of confetti to throw at the Virgin as she passed on the top of a car. Brightly colored eggs were sold. The insides had been replaced with confetti. Youngsters and the not so young would crack them on each others heads...and confetti would rain down.
A local band led the procession...then dancers...followed by clergy and the Virgin. All along the route for about three miles ...the Virgin was greeted with songs and the chant of "Viva, Viva, Viva". Sue and I joined the procession following it, making turns, until we had no idea of where we might be. Not a problem. All we had to do was ask for directions back to the Parian...and we could find our way home.
Funny thing was that we went out on this afternoon walk to explore other neighborhoods and ended up sharing a local tradition. Serendipity.
Dinner - Trip Advisor.com listed "Tlaquepaque Pasta" as the Numero Uno restaurant in town. We learned from our neighbor, Laurie, that this restaurant is part of the Quinta Don Jose Hotel on Calle Reforma. There is a sign for the hotel, but not the restaurant. You must ring their doorbell...and wait to be buzzed in. The decor is beautiful...elegant. We were shown to our table in a room tastefully decorated with large paintings of indigenous Mexicans (looked more like Guatemalans or Peruvians to me). We order Margaritas as a starter. Well made and served in beautiful glasses... a good way to begin our meal. I ordered a "Pesto Salad". Excellent choice as it is a baby spinach salad with pesto dressing,pine nuts, and a creamy goat cheese. Could not be more perfect. I chose a pasta course to follow - Chicken Marsala. This, too, was perfect. The waitstaff was friendly and attentive. In addition to good food, we were entertained by a guitarist/singwer. We very much enjoyed his mello choice of music. Could not ask for more. I can see why this restaurant was rated so highly. My meal with two Margaritas and tip came to 260 pesos...about $20 US.
First Days in Tlaquepaque
This a return trip to Tlaquepaque. Sue will share the apatrment "Lirio Blanco" with me for the first five days. The day Sue goes home, Ann will arrive.
Our trip was a long one...as I allowed four hours between flights in Houston instead of one. Could have made it in one...but, what if there were delays??? A week ago, our flights may have been cancelled. They had more snow in Texas than in northern New Hampshire.
Arrival in Guadalajara was easy....push a button...get a green light and you walk rightthrough customs. My first challenge was the ATM machine. It was only in Spanish. I understood the part about charging a fee for transaction...but, then it seemed to be asking for a contribution as well. I hit NO and the transaction was cancelled (at least, I hope so). Fortunate, I had just a little bit over the amount needed for a taxi to Tlaquepaque. It is very safe and easy to get a taxi at the airport. I went to the Taxi kiosk...told the gentleman that I wanted to go to Tlaquepaque Central. He charged me $210 pesos (about $16). I received a receipt and presented this to one of the fleet of taxis out front. Very easy. I did need to show the driver a map and give him some directions. Would he have found it himself? Of course.
Olivia, the owner of Olivia's Apartments www.oliviasapartment.com had just returned from California. She found two sets of keys to our apartment "Lirio Blanco"....and we were all set. Richard and Kim, our upstairs neighbors welcomed us. After a walk in the rain, to the town center and the ATM, we had a supply of pesos and could eat dinner. We ate a delicious and filling dinner across the street at Olivia's restaurant...Cenaduria La Unica. Had the small Posole (tomato chicken broth, chopped cabbage, radish, corn, and chicken and wonderful seasonings) which was huge and a large quesedilla...plus a cervesa Rusa (beer with lime juice, ice, and salt around rim of glass.
Yesterday was a brighter day...sun was out...it warmed up....and it felt warm and cheery. As we walked along Reforma, a couple stopped us to ask if we are staying at Olivia's Apartments. They were Kerry and Ken from Texas, and are staying across the street in Violeta. Conversation was short as their bus to Guadalajara came along and we said good bye. Will have to visit with them another time.
We did our market shopping...which I always enjoy...spreading the wealth among many vendors. We did get some wonderful crisp, chewy bread from one of them and of course the makings of guacamole from several others. I have decided to do much of our staple shopping at the little shop which is two doors down from our apartment. This way we do not have to carry heavier items such as milk and soda too far....but, more importantly, to give them business.
Returned to apartment to put away our market goods...and then it was back out to walk Independencia and view the galleries and shops. Ah, how am I to resist all of these colorful and joyful momentos of Tlaquepaque? I had to curb the urge to buy....telling myself that I had no room for these decorations and that I do not need any clothing no matter how perfect it might be.
We followed the excellent advice of our friend Laurinda, Deb, Pauline and Elaine who spent the two previous weeks in Tlaquepaque and had our mid-day meal at Rio San Pedro on Calle Juarez. It lived up to their recommendation. Sue had the veggie stuffed pepper and an orange margarita both of which, she really liked. I had the wonderful chicken breaststuffed with squah flowers with a white mole sauce, This came with rice and vegetables. The presentation was lovely. Enjoyed the ambiance of the restaurant...all of the Mexican decorations.
The Gallery of Sergio Bustamante was pure joy. It had changed since last year...even the exterior. I love the little beings that are climbing ladders up the building.
We slowly walked back home walking in and out of galleries and shops along Juarez. Spent a couple of hours reading, catching up on email, making guacamole, tuna salad, and preparing fruit to eat later.
After having a light supper...crisp bread making a tuna and quacamole sandwich....we went back out to the area around the Parian. Perhaps we were too early for the Mariachis, as I did not hear any. The streets were crowdwd (in a nice way) with families enjoying themselves. There were vendors of all sorts of street foods - fried dough, corn on cob, corn off cob in a cup with chili sauce and cheese, chips with a hot sauce, puddings, roasted yucca, garbanzo beans...and so much more. I did not see the fried grasshoppers. Perhaps they are not in season.
The jacaranda trees are not yet in bloom. They are the huge trees which will be covered with purple blossoms. We did see bouganvilla (sp?) and roses. What changes will there be during my twos weeks in Tlaquepaque?
Our trip was a long one...as I allowed four hours between flights in Houston instead of one. Could have made it in one...but, what if there were delays??? A week ago, our flights may have been cancelled. They had more snow in Texas than in northern New Hampshire.
Arrival in Guadalajara was easy....push a button...get a green light and you walk rightthrough customs. My first challenge was the ATM machine. It was only in Spanish. I understood the part about charging a fee for transaction...but, then it seemed to be asking for a contribution as well. I hit NO and the transaction was cancelled (at least, I hope so). Fortunate, I had just a little bit over the amount needed for a taxi to Tlaquepaque. It is very safe and easy to get a taxi at the airport. I went to the Taxi kiosk...told the gentleman that I wanted to go to Tlaquepaque Central. He charged me $210 pesos (about $16). I received a receipt and presented this to one of the fleet of taxis out front. Very easy. I did need to show the driver a map and give him some directions. Would he have found it himself? Of course.
Olivia, the owner of Olivia's Apartments www.oliviasapartment.com had just returned from California. She found two sets of keys to our apartment "Lirio Blanco"....and we were all set. Richard and Kim, our upstairs neighbors welcomed us. After a walk in the rain, to the town center and the ATM, we had a supply of pesos and could eat dinner. We ate a delicious and filling dinner across the street at Olivia's restaurant...Cenaduria La Unica. Had the small Posole (tomato chicken broth, chopped cabbage, radish, corn, and chicken and wonderful seasonings) which was huge and a large quesedilla...plus a cervesa Rusa (beer with lime juice, ice, and salt around rim of glass.
Yesterday was a brighter day...sun was out...it warmed up....and it felt warm and cheery. As we walked along Reforma, a couple stopped us to ask if we are staying at Olivia's Apartments. They were Kerry and Ken from Texas, and are staying across the street in Violeta. Conversation was short as their bus to Guadalajara came along and we said good bye. Will have to visit with them another time.
We did our market shopping...which I always enjoy...spreading the wealth among many vendors. We did get some wonderful crisp, chewy bread from one of them and of course the makings of guacamole from several others. I have decided to do much of our staple shopping at the little shop which is two doors down from our apartment. This way we do not have to carry heavier items such as milk and soda too far....but, more importantly, to give them business.
Returned to apartment to put away our market goods...and then it was back out to walk Independencia and view the galleries and shops. Ah, how am I to resist all of these colorful and joyful momentos of Tlaquepaque? I had to curb the urge to buy....telling myself that I had no room for these decorations and that I do not need any clothing no matter how perfect it might be.
We followed the excellent advice of our friend Laurinda, Deb, Pauline and Elaine who spent the two previous weeks in Tlaquepaque and had our mid-day meal at Rio San Pedro on Calle Juarez. It lived up to their recommendation. Sue had the veggie stuffed pepper and an orange margarita both of which, she really liked. I had the wonderful chicken breaststuffed with squah flowers with a white mole sauce, This came with rice and vegetables. The presentation was lovely. Enjoyed the ambiance of the restaurant...all of the Mexican decorations.
The Gallery of Sergio Bustamante was pure joy. It had changed since last year...even the exterior. I love the little beings that are climbing ladders up the building.
We slowly walked back home walking in and out of galleries and shops along Juarez. Spent a couple of hours reading, catching up on email, making guacamole, tuna salad, and preparing fruit to eat later.
After having a light supper...crisp bread making a tuna and quacamole sandwich....we went back out to the area around the Parian. Perhaps we were too early for the Mariachis, as I did not hear any. The streets were crowdwd (in a nice way) with families enjoying themselves. There were vendors of all sorts of street foods - fried dough, corn on cob, corn off cob in a cup with chili sauce and cheese, chips with a hot sauce, puddings, roasted yucca, garbanzo beans...and so much more. I did not see the fried grasshoppers. Perhaps they are not in season.
The jacaranda trees are not yet in bloom. They are the huge trees which will be covered with purple blossoms. We did see bouganvilla (sp?) and roses. What changes will there be during my twos weeks in Tlaquepaque?
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
Pre-trip - February 10, 2010
Counting the days until I go to Mexico. A week from today, I head down to Boston for an overnight at a Comfort Inn in Revere prior to early morning flight to Guadalajara. Thank goodness it was not today. Record setting snowstorms along the Eastern Seaboard....from Boston south to Washington, DC. have caused the cancellation of thousands of flights.
My bags are packed. Hard to think of warm weather when it is 20° outside and 55° indoors at my condo. Most important items to be packed are my books. In addition to a Moon Guide Book to Guadalajara.....I have a stack of novels. This is when it would pay to own a Kindle downloaded with a selection of books.
My bags are packed. Hard to think of warm weather when it is 20° outside and 55° indoors at my condo. Most important items to be packed are my books. In addition to a Moon Guide Book to Guadalajara.....I have a stack of novels. This is when it would pay to own a Kindle downloaded with a selection of books.
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