Friday, March 5, 2010

Our Last Day in Tlaquepaque

No need to rush. Nothing on the agenda for today. Started my packing. Everything will fit as I am leaving several books behind. Well, it does seem a bit tighter than on the trip TO Mexico. Now, I only need to be concerned about the weight. I love all of the Mexican treasures that I purchased for myself and for gifts. Nothing is valued over twenty dollars...but, never the less, they are treasures to me. My yellow non-crushable hat looks great and has protected me from the sun. Purchased placemats and napkins in bright primary colors to go with my new dishes. My very favorite acquistion is a painted tin lizard that surrounds a mirror.

When we felt sufficiently packed, Ann and I walked over to a language school on Calle 16th de Septiembre and printed our boarding passes for tomorrow's flights. Good weather predicted for all of the cities concerned in our travel day.

How is it that we can walk our same route and still find galleries and shops that we had not previously visited? Well, we did. Again, we enjoyed the beauty in this discovery.

Time passes quickly. Should we eat back at our apartment or at a local restaurant? Remembered Progresso Mariscos which is a block south of the Parian on Progresso. This seafood restaurant is open air with an awning overhead...perhaps to protect us from the birds. The group of men at the adjoining table were wearing shirts with a logo and the word BIMBO on them. We chuckled at that and then I told Ann that Bimbo was a baking company in Mexico. A tall, sexy, young woman was giving out samples of tequila to restaurant guests. Could we pass on this national pastime? No, we happily accepted this drink while waiting for our shrimp dishes to be served. Ann had the coconut shrimp and I had shrimp wrapped in bacon with a cheese filling. Delicious. We were so happy that we did not miss this restaurant...our final meal out during our stay in Tlaquepaque.

After supper at our apartment...Lirio Blanco, we took our last stroll around town. We wondered if the restaurant where we ate earlier in the day did much business at night...and found that even though this is a Friday night, Progresso Mariscos was closed. Thank goodness that we followed our impulse to eat at 2:30 instead of waiting until evening. As we walked, we observed that there were very few diners in any of the restaurants. This has been the case every night.
Our conclusion was that between 2:00 pm - 4:00 pm is the popular time to eat. Why did it take two weeks for me to catch on?

What will be happening in the area around the Parian and the Jardin tomorrow? Tonight, there was much activity setting up rows of vendors booths...many more than usual. In the Jardin, the white canopies have multiplied. Something special is about to happen...and we will miss it.

I am sorry to be leaving Tlaquepaque. I believe that I could easily live here...as long as I had a sunny apartment with low level noise. I do not say "no noise" as that would mean that I was deaf. We are surrounded with sounds - the lady next door laughing in her unusual way - neighbors singing - childeren playing at the Jardin de Ninos behind us - the propane truck "Presta, Presta, Presta Gaz" - the Golden Retrievers' friendly bark at passersby - the sound of the water pump (brief, but my least favorite sound) - buses between 6am - 10 pm - birds singing from tree in yard behind us - church bells striking the quarter hours - music from the Parian and so many more. These sounds, lovely shops and galleries, and the wonderful kind hearted people make up Tlaquepaque. Gracias a dios para todo.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Sightseeing in Guadalajara

Took a public bus #275 to Guadalajara Centro. Bus driver and passengers told us where to get off. I guess that it was obvious that we are tourists and wanted to see the Cathedral and museums. It was a glorious day with clear blue sky and filled with sunshine. Guadalajara was at its best. The many parks were nicely landscaped and had bubbling fountains and plenty of benches where pedestrians could sit and marvel at the beauty of the city's colonial architecture. We walked and walked turning left and right as the spirit took us. We found a street dedicated to wedding dresses and ball gowns. Many of the gowns could have been worn at royal weddings or to a fairy tale ball. This street could fulfill a little girl's fantasy.

Can you you imagine a store the size of a department store with three floors selling only jewelry?
Case after case filled with sparkling jewels. The entrance was guarded by a military looking man with a large assault rifle. Cannot imagine the value of the gold inside this building.

We entered the public market. First there was the shoe section...rows upon rows of shoes of every design. Then the brightly colored clothing for folk dancing. Clothing...household goods. leather goods, CDs, DVDs, and anything that you might need for your horse. No, I did not mean house....but your horse. Beautiful saddles and other decorative trim lined another whole section.

There were endless small restaurants competing with each other for business. Most sold local favorites such as tacos, enchiladas, ahogadas, rice and beans, and hamburgers. It smelled wonderful walking therough this area, but we resisted. We later had tacos and a Pepsi at an open front restaurant on a pedestrian walkway.

Bt 2:30, our feet were tired and it was time to return to Tlaquepaque. I am so pround of how we have gotten around the area via public transportation. If local people were not so helpful, this would not have been possible.

Dinner at El Patio. There were only two other tables occupied at this garden restaurant. Once again, we received outstanding service from staff at restaurant. Such a pleasant setting with a light, warm breeze, and soft music from the '50s. Do you suppose that they determine the age of their customers and play a CD of the corresponding era? We shared the Chicken Mole and Chiles en Nogada. Excellent.

It was around 9 pm as we walked home. Once again, we enjoyed the atmosphere around the Jardin and the Parian. Families and singles of all ages out in the streets enjoying each other's company.

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Tequila

Jose Orozco picked us up at 9:30 for our Tequila Tour. Drove through Guadalajara and Zapapan on our way to the town of Tequila. As we approached, the landscape changed. It was open space with fields and fields of blue agave plants. In the distance there were steep mountains. This is the dry season, so much of the landscape is brown. The blue-green agaves stand out. Our first stop was at "Tres Mujeres" a small family run distillery. We walked into the fields to watch a worker chop the leaves off the agave plant until he had the heart of the agave which they call a pina (pineapple). This pina can weigh as much as 160 pounds. Being too heavy for the men to safely move, they cut the pina in half. We were invited to taste the inner white part of the pina. It was similar in taste and texture to jicama.

Next step was to pack the pinas into an oven where they were roasted until soft. From there they went to a process where they were crushed and juices were filtered out. Juices went through several steps in large vats for the fermenting process. Eventually you have Tequila. The "White" tequila is ready immediately. The alcohol proof is too high to be sold, so water is added. The next level of tequila has been aged for three years...and the best for seven years. We did a taste testing. I did not care for any of them straight. Offer me a Margarita and I would happily accept....but, that was not an option.

We drove further through the town of Tequila. All along the way there were small distilleries...and fields of agave...and of course many roadside stands selling tequila. We drove to a lovely estate and distillery "La Corfradia" where a local guide "Julia" showed us her company's process. This was the same as "Tres Mujeres" but, on a larger scale. On the premises they also had a pottery company from Tonala where decorative bottles were made for bottling tequila. It was interesting to tour this fabrica to see the pottery making process.

"La Confradia" was the most shaded place that we have been to during this trip to Mexico. Buildings were shaded by huge, old, mango trees. There were also lemon, lime, orange and grapefruit trees. The building where the tequila was aged in wooden barrels, was in the middle of a grove of mango trees. The trees even came through floor of the building and out through the roof. Temperatures inside dropped about 15 degrees.

I had no interest in purchasing tequila...but, learned that for Margaritas, you do not use good tequila but what they call "mixed". ...not 100% tequila

Ann and I were totally sober for the ride back to Tlaquepaque. We said goodbye to Jose. I would recommend Jose Orozco for anyone needing a guide in the Guadalajara area. He can be cntacted at usamex99@prodigy.net.mx or usamex99@hotmail.com

Past lunch time. Ann and I proceeded down the block to Shapliin's, a small, clean restaurant on the corner of Cinco de Mayo and 16th of Septiembre. They sell one of the popular dishes of the area "Ahogadas". I warned Ann in advance that this was a "messy" meal. She soon saw for herself.

What is an Ahogada? First of all, the woman covered an oval plate of local pottery with a light plastic bag. A hero-hoagy-submarine sort of roll filled with tender pieces of pork fill the sandwich. She then dips the sandwich in tomato sauce and adds sliced onions on the side. Picante sauce is another option. You eat this drippy sandwich with your hands. Tastes wonderful. Many napkins were needed to clean my hands...but, the plate was easy to clean. They just removed the plastic bag and threw it out and the plate was ready for the next customer.

Our neighbors, Kim and Richard, invited Ann and me up for wine, chips, guacamole. and good conversation. The hours passed quickly and we watched the sun set from their west facing terrace. I liked them very much and hope to make contact with them on future visits to Tlaquepaque.

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Enjoying the Comforts of Lirio Blanco

Lirio Blanco is the name of our spacious apartment. We have two bedrooms, livingroom, dining room, and fully equiped kitchen. There is a large bathroom with walk-in shower. In the back, we have a comfortably furnished patio with roof and a tiled open yard and garden beyond. A hummingbird visits each day taking nectar from the colorful hibiscus. High walls close in the back yard on three sides. All we can see beyond the wall are large trees teeming with birdsong.

After breakfast, we explored neighborhoods to the south of us. Occasionally, a door would be open and we could take a look through a house to the beautiful courtyard beyond. You never know what may be behind what looks like an ugly wall. We meandered to Calle Juarez and spent considerable time admiring the woven goods in a shop "Mona". Again, we helped the local economy.

Stopped at a tortilleria and bought fresh tortillas for lunch. These went well with a bowl of my homemade chicken soup. As the days of vacation are becoming fewer, we wanted to enjoy the luxury of sitting outdoors reading books. So, we spent the afternoon on our patio.

Days and nights are flying by. Did not want to miss having dinner at "El Nahual" on Juarez. The ambiance in this restaurant is most impressive. Feels luxurious. Prices are a little higher than many of the other restaurants, but it is worth paying extra for the atmosphere. Both Ann and I had a Margarita followed by pork medallions in a plum sauce, pureed plantain, and fresh veggies. Each of us had a glass of sparkling mineral water. We shared a large piece of flan for desert. With tip, this came to about $23 per person.

Three full days left. Tomorrow, we will go on Tequila Tour with our guide Jose Orozco.

Monday, March 1, 2010

Lake Chapala and Ajijic ......Land of Clones

A few days ago, we briefly met "Randall" an American friend of our neighbors, Richard and Kim. Randall lives in Tlaquepaque and was a good resource for us. Told him that Ann and I want to go to Lake Chapala and Ajijic plus on another day to Tequila. Randall put us in touch with Jose Orozco who made plans to guide us on these excursions.

Today, Jose picked us up at 10:00 am and we proceded to Lake Chapala. Jose asked if we minded if he ran an errand on the way. This meant a stop at the new bus terminal at Guadalajara Airport. A traveler can take shuttle from airline terminals to this station and then a bus to Tlaquepaque or Guadalajara. Buses also go to other locations such as Puerto Vallarta and Colima. It is much less expensive to take a bus than to book a connecting flight. From the coast, I could take a ferry to La Paz on the Baja Peninsula. I am thinking ahead to next year's trip to Baja.

Beautiful Lake Chapala...50 miles long..the largest lake in Mexico...second largest in Latin America. Our first stop was in the village of Ajijic where we walked the Malecon along the shore of the lake. We proceeded uphill to the town center. The town looks ideal...lovely landscapes, attractive architecture, community centers, all sorts of shops. It is exactly what I have described as the type of town where I would want to retire. BUT........the people all looked the same....Senior Americans and Canadians dressed in shorts or Capris...wide brimmed hats...pale skin....driving cars with northern plates. What would it be like living among them? They all looked alike. Do their lives overlap too much. Am I judging unfairly? Perhaps. We visited "The Neil James Library and Garden". This was a very active park with indications of all sorts of planned activities. There were signs announcing up and coming concerts. Signs for blood pressure testing reminded that this was the home of seniors. There were potters and other artesans. With interest, we followed the signs for "Carpentiristos Jovens". Does this mean that there are people in this town below retirement age? Who are these people. The signs ended in the back of park at an outdoor carpentry shop. A good looking, silver ponytailed retiree from Michigan, kindly, took a few moments to answer our questions. He and other retirees living in Ajijic had set up a program to teach carpentry to boys starting at age twelve. The local boys attend this workshop for a few years. At the end of the training, these young men are placed in jobs. With the skills that they have learned they will be highly employable. I was very impressed and my image of Ajijic changed for the better. These retirees were giving back to their community.

In the town of Chapala we walked through handicraft and food stands to the waterfront and along Chapala's malecon. There was a row of pelicans out in the water in a formation. Why? The waterfront park was beautifully landscaped. There were places for families to picnic. There was a skateboard park with a lot of action from the area's young boys. Jose, Ann and I ate lunch at an open air restaurant overlooking Lake Chapala. After lunch, we completed our lakefront walk and visited the large church just up the main street. Chapala was a town with many more Mexican residents than Ajijic. It is a tourist town because of the lake and mountains...but, it was not a place where everyone looked the same. Time to head back to Tlaquepaque.

Jose Orozco, our Guide, speaks perfect English as he has lived in the US. Ann and I both liked his pleasant, kind personality. We look forward to having Jose guide us later in the week, when we visit Tequila. Jose is a very enterprising, young man. In addition to guiding private tours to Lake Chapala, Tequila, Guachimontones (Round Pyramids), Guadalajara City Tours, Foco Tonal (Healing Site), and Airport Transportation, Jose will take clients shopping. This would cover your average tourist or the person who is settling in Mexico and needs to furnish their new home. You can read of Jose,s services at http://www.guideworksorozco.com/ His email addresses are: usamex99@prodigy.net.mx and usamex99@hotmail.com.mx We highly recommed Jose Orozco.

Home by 3:00pm. I made a pot of chicken vegetable soup which filled our apartment with a rich aroma. We had a big lunch of Chile Rellenos (shrimp and cheese stuffings) so soup was perfect for our supper. Afterwards, we took our evening walk about town. We were drawn into "Del Corazon de la Tierra" a large shop on Juarez that sells handmade goods by Indigenous groups in the mountainous areas of Mexico and Guatemala. From my travels to Chiapas in Mexico and various places in Guatemala, I could identify many of the creative handicrafts. This was my kind of store. They sold labor intensive pieces of art. The colors and workmanship was outstanding. http://www.delcorazondelatierra.com/

Sunday, February 28, 2010

Ballet and Bikes - Sunday in Tlaquepaque

Enjoyed leisurely morning sipping tea on our patio. Late breakfast at Restaurant Las Viandras on Juarez. The front of restaurant is open to the street. On Sundays, a road route to Guadalajara is closed to motor vehicle traffic which provides a safe wide way for families to ride bicycles, skate boards, roller blades, walk dogs, and push baby strollers. We watched this procession from our breakfast table.

We had planned to walk the route towards Guadalajara but, only went two blocks when we noticed a stage at the SW corner of the Parian. There were men and women in traditional dress whom I recognized as Ballet Folklorical. We took our seats on a shaded park bench opposite the stage. We did not wait long for the two hour show to begin. We were joined by Santiago a man in his 40's in a wheelchair and his mother Ramona. Santiago had lived in California, so he spoke some English and was able to help us interpret the dances. In addition to the traditional dances, they performed several interpretive dances. Those performers had a ballet background as they danced with poise and fluid movements. Performance started with the Danza de Los Viejos (Dance of the Old Men) one of my favorite Mexican dances.

Between our bench and the stage was the road with hundreds of people mostly on bikes passing by. This added to the color and to our amusement. What a place for people watching. Laurinda would have fallen in love with the many beautiful dogs....many riding in bicycle baskets.

After watching these wonderful dancers for two hours, we did not feel the need to view something similar in the courtyard of the Parian later in the afternoon. Walked only a block and we met our friends Jim, Bob, and Richard....the JRB Jazz Band. Exchanged greetings and Ann and I, were on our way. To where? Wherever our feet might take us. Found a gallery thus far unexplored - "Galeria Rosita Canela y Jose Cortez" on Morelos, where I purchased a colorful tin lizard mirror.

Had a refreshment break in the courtyard of a restaurant across Matamoros from the Cathedral (Soledad).

Made a stop at the Refugio, but other than a private party nothing seemed to be happening. Did some supermarket shopping at Soriana and then went home.

Turned on my computer for updates from home. Good news - Power was restored on my street last night. Ann spoke with friends who said that it was not only in the North Country that there were problems. Beverly had no power in Raymond, NH until this morning. We learned of excessive wind damage and destruction all over the state.

Learned that Western Europe had similar storms with huricane force winds of up to 124 mph. Extensive damage in England, France, Spain, and Portugal. Many lives lost. This has been a bad week with landslides and flooding in Madieras and earthquakes in Chile as well. And people worry about travel to Mexico!

Made decisions about when to travel to and from India and via internet made my airline reservations with Continental Airlines for January 7-29, 2011. It is like gambling or buying into the stock market. When is the best time to buy for the best rates. Paid $1296. which is not bad for the distanced to be traveled. Isn't the Internet wonderful! I can be in Mexico and yet handle all my home business without a languagr barrier.

Light supper at home and again a stroll around town. It was entertainment for the children in the Jardin, tonight. We watched several clowns include the children as they entertained. On Independencia, there were drummers....sounded Carribean to me. Walked to end of the pedestrian way.....and when we turned....there was a gigantic full moon directly in front of us.

Turned on the television to see if the Olympics might be on. Had not been able to find it the past week. We were in time for the closing ceremonies. For me, this was one of the few Winter Olympics that I have missed. Oh well...I rather be in Mexico.

Saturday, February 27, 2010

JRB Jazz Band, Springfield, Missouri

Slow and easy day. Slept late, did a couple loads of laundry. Hung the more delicate clothing on rack in back yard. Sat around the patio enjoying a cup of tea and a humorous book "Aunt Pig of Puglia". Realized that the flowering bushes and plants in our yard needed a watering, but I was not strong enough to turn on the two faucets for the garden watering systems. Ann was successful and she turned them on all the way. That was great until we realized that we had our laundry drying out there. We made a dash for that section of the yard and got soaked for our efforts. We laughed so hard as we stood there dripping. It was a joy to laugh in such a hearty way.

After drying off, and giving the gardens their soaking, we wandered about town for a couple hours. Seems as though each time we walk down Independencia, we discover galleries and shops that we have not visited before. How is this possible? Today's discovery was Galeria Carlos Albert at No 159. with its display of whimsical animals mostly made of paper mache. The woman working there stuck up a friendly conversation with us. She said that customers can walk into the shop with frowns on their faces but, cannot help walking out with a grin. This is so true. The art delights one's spirit. Two more times this day, we met up with our new friend...at Waldos (the ten peso s tore) and at the evening concert. Each day our group of acquaintances in town expands.

Quesedilla and a Cerveza Rusa (beer with ice and lime juice) for supper at La Unica across the street.

Yesterday, Bob and Jim, our Tapatio Bus Tour friends humbly told us that they were in Tlaquepaque on a cultural exchange program "Peace through People". Tlaquepaque is a sister city to their home city - Springfield, Missouri. They and their partner, Richard, play in a rock/jazz trio. Tonight, we joined a large crowd of local people in Jardin Hidalgo for the concert. Much to our astonishment, they were outstanding...and I do not even like that kind of music. They were great instrumentalists as well as singers.

Looking back at yesterday, what if we had known of and boarded the 11:30 am Tapatio Bus? We would not have met Bob and Jim plus our Harley acquaintances. I still believe that what is meant to be will be.

I understand that back home in Thornton, NH, much of the town including my condo has been without power for a couple of days and power might not be restored until Tuesday. I should still have heat as I have propane heat and temps are in the thirties. My biggest problem will be a freezer chock full of frozen food.