Jose Orozco picked us up at 9:30 for our Tequila Tour. Drove through Guadalajara and Zapapan on our way to the town of Tequila. As we approached, the landscape changed. It was open space with fields and fields of blue agave plants. In the distance there were steep mountains. This is the dry season, so much of the landscape is brown. The blue-green agaves stand out. Our first stop was at "Tres Mujeres" a small family run distillery. We walked into the fields to watch a worker chop the leaves off the agave plant until he had the heart of the agave which they call a pina (pineapple). This pina can weigh as much as 160 pounds. Being too heavy for the men to safely move, they cut the pina in half. We were invited to taste the inner white part of the pina. It was similar in taste and texture to jicama.
Next step was to pack the pinas into an oven where they were roasted until soft. From there they went to a process where they were crushed and juices were filtered out. Juices went through several steps in large vats for the fermenting process. Eventually you have Tequila. The "White" tequila is ready immediately. The alcohol proof is too high to be sold, so water is added. The next level of tequila has been aged for three years...and the best for seven years. We did a taste testing. I did not care for any of them straight. Offer me a Margarita and I would happily accept....but, that was not an option.
We drove further through the town of Tequila. All along the way there were small distilleries...and fields of agave...and of course many roadside stands selling tequila. We drove to a lovely estate and distillery "La Corfradia" where a local guide "Julia" showed us her company's process. This was the same as "Tres Mujeres" but, on a larger scale. On the premises they also had a pottery company from Tonala where decorative bottles were made for bottling tequila. It was interesting to tour this fabrica to see the pottery making process.
"La Confradia" was the most shaded place that we have been to during this trip to Mexico. Buildings were shaded by huge, old, mango trees. There were also lemon, lime, orange and grapefruit trees. The building where the tequila was aged in wooden barrels, was in the middle of a grove of mango trees. The trees even came through floor of the building and out through the roof. Temperatures inside dropped about 15 degrees.
I had no interest in purchasing tequila...but, learned that for Margaritas, you do not use good tequila but what they call "mixed". ...not 100% tequila
Ann and I were totally sober for the ride back to Tlaquepaque. We said goodbye to Jose. I would recommend Jose Orozco for anyone needing a guide in the Guadalajara area. He can be cntacted at usamex99@prodigy.net.mx or usamex99@hotmail.com
Past lunch time. Ann and I proceeded down the block to Shapliin's, a small, clean restaurant on the corner of Cinco de Mayo and 16th of Septiembre. They sell one of the popular dishes of the area "Ahogadas". I warned Ann in advance that this was a "messy" meal. She soon saw for herself.
What is an Ahogada? First of all, the woman covered an oval plate of local pottery with a light plastic bag. A hero-hoagy-submarine sort of roll filled with tender pieces of pork fill the sandwich. She then dips the sandwich in tomato sauce and adds sliced onions on the side. Picante sauce is another option. You eat this drippy sandwich with your hands. Tastes wonderful. Many napkins were needed to clean my hands...but, the plate was easy to clean. They just removed the plastic bag and threw it out and the plate was ready for the next customer.
Our neighbors, Kim and Richard, invited Ann and me up for wine, chips, guacamole. and good conversation. The hours passed quickly and we watched the sun set from their west facing terrace. I liked them very much and hope to make contact with them on future visits to Tlaquepaque.
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
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